Step(pe) by Step(pe): Kazakhstan’s Reach for Regional Dominance

By Ivelina Georgieva, ‘10

Kazakhstan is a country defined by the complex dynamics of Central Asia, a region that proves how impossible it is to not be fascinated by its politics, culture and history.  From the 19th-century Great Game between Great Britain and Russia, to the decades of Imperial Russia, to the years of Russification and Stalin’s carving out of the region, and finally to the 1991 independence of the republics, Kazakhstan is a product of Central Asia’s rich history.  Kazakhstan the world’s 9th largest country, is particularly important, not only because of its gigantic oil and gas reserves, but also because of its ambitions to become a regional leader in close alliance with Russia.

I developed my interest in the region during an extensive research project on Russian politics with Professor Caldwell and Professor Richmond. Exploring the Russian and Eurasian information space turned into an obsession. Before my trip to Kazakhstan, I had never been to a Muslim country except for a couple short trips to the touristy parts of Turkey. At the time, I felt rather ignorant sitting at the classroom and discussing human rights and Islam, for instance, without having seen, heard or felt the religion’s impact on society myself.

My expectations were shattered only a few hours after my arrival in Kazakhstan. This is not to say that taxi drivers didn’t rip me off  or that I didn’t see staggering poverty in the villages around Almaty. However, the overall spirit was of prosperity and good life. I was surprised to find a beautiful modern downtown sporting both relics of Soviet architecture and boutique names from all over the world. The supermarkets offered produce from all countries imaginable and all the local specialties including horse-meat delicacies, camel milk, and different types of caviar. Some malls even had ice-skating rinks and mini theme parks, all for exorbitant prices. The average yearly income in the country is estimated at $11,500, but and the luxury markets are booming. Professionals are driving the consumerism in Kazakhstan’s rapidly developing city centers.

Westernization, I hear some of the readers mutter. Economically yes, but not culturally. The government headed by Nursultan Nazarayev, a close partner of the Russians, is implementing a strong nationalistic program. The unmistakable Kazakh label is ubiquitous. It is on the architecture,  the environmental campaigns, the ads for credits and phone plans, on the infinite number of posters of Nazarbayev that keep a watchful eye on the passers-by. The West deems the latter’s policies dictatorial, especially in the wake of a lifelong presidency proposal recently, floated by an official from his party. However, a fast friend explained to me, “Some say our President is not a good ruler, but truth is he has done amazing work and people trust him. That’s why they chose to reelect him for a third mandate. They are worried about what will happen after he steps down.”

During my stay, I rarely heard opinions critical of the President. Consistently, the young people I met vowed their allegiance. I did not hear any reactions against the decision to control the Internet, either. It was taken in mid-June, officially for the purposes of detecting potential terrorist networking. Unofficially, it has been suggested, that it served to  limit the budding freedom of speech and expression. The majority of the publications propagate the official governmental stance and hail Kazakhstan’s expected role as a regional leader, focusing on uniting Eurasia.

According to projections, Kazakhstan’s center will be Astana, the futuristic fast-growing capital over which towers the Baiterek Tower. Astana is the President’s personal project and the two celebrate their birthday on the same day, the 6th of July. Its intense urban development kick-started in 1994 and was a part of the larger project to develop Kazakhstan’s steppes. Although most of the city still looks like construction grounds, the spirit is easy to capture: business. Astana is deemed the future business capital of Central Asia. My hosts in the city explained that the workday is 10 hours on average and people are too tired to think of fun or culture, “not that the capital has any to offer” the “administrators and businessmen (working) exclusively” in the city.

I stayed with the extended family of a Kazakh friend and had the opportunity to take a glimpse of the traditional Muslim ways for the first time. In Almaty, where exposed midriffs and punk outfits are common, and where I lived with a young, Burberry-clad Kazakh student, my mind registered the occasional hijab with passing interest. This is why a mere three steps into Asem’s house in Astana, having glimpsed the living room where eight bearded men in traditional clothes were dining, I froze. What was I supposed to do? Greet every one of them, greet the eldest one, or not greet them at all? I picked the second option, shook the hand of the white-haired elder, and, blushing with shame, rushed into the kitchen for a snack with the women. In the next two days I was passing tea cups to the elders at the end of the table, eating with hands, helping set the mid-afternoon snack with fruit and delicious Eastern desserts. The time I spent with them reminded me of the importance of cherishing one’s family, so often washed down by our “globalized,” fast-paced lives. The traditionally nomadic society seemed settled down in comparison with ours.

My time in Kazakhstan  was a period of intense learning in which the maxim “you notice things when you observe” proved a most valuable partner. In a professional aspect, I examined the economic upheaval and growing strategic importance of the country, as well as the Eurasian information space. As a tourist, I discovered the historical riches and beautiful nature of both the Almaty area and Astana. On a personal level, I got to know a distinct multiethnic and multiconfessional culture that has remained vibrant in spite of the Soviet intrusions.

Ivelina Georgieva is a junior Diplomacy and World Affairs major. She can be reached at igeorgieva@oxy.edu